Heart & Soul
Chef David Thomas, who formerly operated Herb & Soul restaurant in Parkville, has a new venture downtown near City Hall. Named for a 19th-century African-American journalist and activist, Ida B’s table serves what it calls modern soul food.
It occupies a large space in a brick industrial building within a stone’s throw of the elevated JFX overhead. Inside, there’s a barroom to the left, and large dining room divided into two areas with a wrought-iron rail.
Polished wood, industrial ductwork overhead, exposed brickwork and wood-textured drum shades for lighting, constitute the décor. There are also two adjoining spaces that can be used for private events.
Dramatic, oversized artworks portraying prominent African-Americans – including actor Paul Robeson and the restaurant’s namesake – adorn some of the walls.
The menu contains Southern-style classics and modern takes on soul food. Look for fried green tomatoes, “Southern sushi” (dirty rice and blackened chicken wrapped in collard greens), buttermilk-fried frog legs, deviled eggs, a grilled Carolina pork chop with roasted heirloom carrots and Carolina Gold rice perloo, and a pan-seared blue catfish with Hoppin’ John. The Old Bay fried chicken is crispy and delicious, and comes with a flaky buttermilk biscuit, Liberian greens and dirty rice. The excellent meatloaf is a blend of bison, and comes accompanied with greens and mashed root vegetables.
The restaurant maintains relationships with many local farms and purveyors, with most ingredients locally sourced.
The barroom has a nice cocktail program; my Sazerac was perfectly prepared.
On the several occasions I’ve visited, the placed has been full of patrons and the servers friendly and on point. Ida B’s – despite its slightly off-the-beaten-path location – is a solid addition to the downtown dining scene. Open for lunch and dinner. {Ida B’s Table, 235 Holliday Street, Downtown}
